30 Houses: A Hidden Neighborhood Hiding Behind Central
These days, we see trendy bars and eateries in Hong Kong’s SOHO district. However, it is also home to all sorts of hidden gems, and one such treasure near our Dash units is 30 Houses 卅間, a historic neighborhood in Central. Here there resides an active community of “gaifongs” (local residents) who are still heavily involved in fostering the community.
We have Dash residents from all over the globe, including Europe, the United States, and the U.K, who enjoy learning about Hong Kong culture. That’s why we spoke to Concern Group Convenor Katty Law Ngar-ning, to learn about the 30 Houses neighborhood and gaifong stories.
The Community
Like most districts in Central, the 30 Houses neighborhood is home to locals and expats, the young and old. What makes 30 Houses stand out is the active community of gaifongs who have grown up here. They are the ones who are keeping the community spirit alive. Most days, you’ll see daily conversations and banter between gaifongs in public spaces. Katty starts to explain more about. “I grew up here, so it’s natural to have a strong attachment to 30 Houses. I love walking around this neighbourhood and talking to gaifongs. It’s a lovely feeling to be able to greet each other every day in this small but cozy community,” explains Kitty.
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30 Houses
30 Houses is a traditional neighborhood that has nurtured the more modern SOHO that Central Hong Kong is known to expats”. It’s bounded by Hollywood Road to the north, Staunton Street to the south, Tank Lane to the west and Shelley Street to the east, corresponding to present-day SoHo. There have been many explanations of where the name came from, “It’s rumored that many years ago in the 19th century, there was a wealthy man who bought 30 stone houses in one go on Kwong Hon Terrace and named this area after that. It started with two stone houses built next to another along Bridges Street.” To the present day, most people call this area SoHo, but gaifongs still refer to it as 30 Houses,” explains Katty.
The Neighborhood
As we walked around this charming neighborhood, we saw a mix of high-rise luxury apartments, tong lau buildings and redevelopment projects including PMQ and Hong Kong News-Expo (HKNE) housed inside the former Bridges Street Market. One shop that particularly stood out is Kaifong Yulan Association, a community group which organizes the annual Yu Lan (Hungry Ghosts Festival). “Kaifong Yulan Association is the only evidence of 30 Houses history as others have moved out of the area,” explains Katty. She continues, “I love visiting PMQ’s public space. It used to be a popular space with tourists but now, it’s not crowded so it’s is a great place to hang out,” Katty said.
Even without asking, we can tell there are still a lot of stories to be said about 30 Houses. “If you want to see the beauty of 30 Houses, then the best way is to draw a sketch! Why? That’s the only way you’ll notice the details. If you’re not an artist, then grab a coffee at Common Grounds, sit down on the steps and enjoy the vibe. You can always enjoy the area like a gaifong if you’re able to cherish what remains.”
Activities
A decade ago, if you wanted to check out street markets hosted by gaifongs, you might expect to see more compared to today. They are still active on Wellington Street, but there are not as many shops compared to the past. Kitty comments, “Expats love the street market, but it’s a shame there’s not as many as before. My French friends love it because it reminds them of the flea markets in Montmartre.”
There was a time when gaifongs hosted events for everyone. These events included movie screenings, calligraphy classes, historical walks, and art classes. As a result, they attracted new and old residents and those curious individuals who visit due to the uniqueness of the district. Today, the staircase on Shing Wong Street is a great hangout space for gaifongs.
The Future
The future is still unclear for 30 Houses, but Katty, who is a member of of the Central and Western Concern Group have been working together with gaifong’s to bring back the name of 30 Houses and educate Hong Kong about the area’s history. As time goes by, she hopes to see more shops for locals such as local bakeries, restaurants serving local snacks, more Cha Chang Tengs and bookshop. When it comes to public spaces, “it could be better utilized with more chairs for the public and better noise control.”
If you’d like to find out more about 30 Houses, visit its Facebook page, or take a walk-in tour organized by Walk In Hong Kong or Hide and Seek Tour.
